As one of the biggest investments one can make in a lifetime, homeowners want and expect their homes to last a long time. But not all buildings — or building materials — are made equal.

The lifespan of a home depends on a number of factors including location, climate and weather, materials, and the building type. Individual components such as heating systems and appliances have their own concerns, such as the quality of installation, level of maintenance, and intensity of use.

With that in mind, homes of a certain age in BC are prone to more issues than others. Condos built in the 1990s often have leaking issues, while those built in the 70s can have poor plumbing and elevators. Homes built from the 1960s all the way up until the early 90s can contain harmful asbestos. Buildings constructed prior to the 1950s (the start of official building codes) can have everything from poor foundations to faulty wiring.

Everything is fixable for a price, but many home buyers may not have the budget to replace or upgrade the core "bones" of a house: the envelope, foundation, HVAC systems, plumbing, and electrical. I'll be reviewing some of the warning signs to watch out for when touring a home, as well as what kind of systems and materials are preferred.

Disclaimer: I am not a property inspector. All potential home buyers are advised to have a professional property inspection done and to consult with the proper tradespeople about the various components of any property before making a purchase.

Inspecting The Building Envelope

A home's envelope consists of all the parts that stand between it and the elements — namely the walls, windows, doors and roof.

The most current and durable material for roofs is fibreglass shingles. Following closely after in durability are slate, copper, and clay/concrete mix roofs (when properly installed). Metal roofs in general are extremely durable, as well as fire-resistant and low-maintenance.

On the opposite end of things, asphalt roofs rarely last longer than 20 years, max. If the home you're considering has an asphalt roof or standard shingles, make sure to check for signs of patching, sagging, or water damage. Shingles should not be curling, and the roof should have proper drip edges with no rot or loose nails. If your roof has a chimney, inspect the cap and liners — they often break down after about 30 years.

Gutters should be rust-free and slope properly to their downspouts, with properly aligned splash blocks at the bottom. The property itself should also be sloped to carry water away from the home and its foundation to prevent damage.

The walls of the building should be plumb (straight) on the inside. You can test this by tying a heavy object to a long string and hanging it about one inch out from where the wall meets the ceiling, then measuring how far the object hangs from the base of the wall — if it's three inches or more, then the wall is out of plumb and will likely need repairs.

On the exterior, walls should have undamaged siding and trim, with no splitting or cupping. HardiePlank® and fibre-cement are some of the most durable sidings you can find: they're stable through the seasons, rot- fire- and insect-proof, and often come with a 30-50 year warranty. Vinyl siding is another good choice, with about a 35 year lifespan, low cost, easy installation, no need for paint, and protection against rot and insects.

Types of siding to avoid are pressboard or masonite siding (which will delaminate and soften over time), and aluminum siding (which will lose colour). Brick-walled homes should have mortar that is solid and not sandy. If the home is from the 1920s or earlier and has solid masonry walls, there's a good chance that it's not "furred" and will be cold, with plaster coatings that can easily decay. Homes older than 75 years in general should be checked for rot, insects, and structural creep.

For windows, fibreglass or vinyl is often the best option. Fibreglass and vinyl windows don't warp or rust, and won't separate from their frames or have gaps. Conversely, older windows from the 1960s or earlier will either need storm additions for protection, or to be replaced entirely — especially if they have metal casements.

Inspecting A Home's Foundation

The foundation of a home is one of the most important parts of the building and often the most expensive to fix in the event of a serious problem. If you spy any signs of damage or are worried that something might become a problem, it may be worth your time to hire a structural engineer along with a home inspector to determine whether foundation repair is needed.

It's important to remember that different foundation types are suited to different kinds of areas. Elevated homes with a crawlspace are well-suited to areas with a lot of water accumulation. Pier-and-beam foundations can be dangerous in places prone to earthquakes or strong winds. Slab foundations shift in cold weather and can make it difficult to reach the septic and other important systems, and older slabs are particularly prone to flooding and pest intrusion.

Regardless of the type of foundation, you'll want to keep an eye out for cracks, water infiltration, and evidence of bugs. The interior of the basement (or crawlspace, if the home has one) should be dry. The concrete of the foundation should hold up if poked at with a screwdriver; if it chips or breaks, it may be deteriorating.

Keep in mind that cracks don't always indicate a problem. Thin cracks that are ¼ inch or thinner occur often in poured foundations as the house settles, and usually only need to be sealed. Thin cracks are also fine in block walls so long as they're vertical and occur at the joints.

You will want to watch out for wider cracks, cracks that run at a steep angle or through a block, horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks, cracks in the stucco or masonry of homes on a slab, cracks in drywall or tile floors, gaps between wall seams, or any other sign of displacement. All of these can indicate a very serious problem with the foundation.

Any chimneys and the walls of the foundation itself should be straight, with no leaning, bulging, or curving. Masonry houses should be checked for spreading at the middle joist line, while houses on steep grades should be checked for sliding. Doors and windows should be tested to see if they stick, won't shut, or have cracks of their own — all potential signs of a shifting foundation. Finally, place a marble on the floor or staircase and see if it rolls on its own due to a slope, which can be another sign of foundation pitch.

HVAC Systems & Water Heaters

Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems have limited lifespans that are heavily influenced by how well they're maintained. When considering a home for purchase, get a copy of the maintenance records for a better idea of how much life they have left in them.

Gas furnaces have an average lifespan of 18-20 years. You can test them by finding the thermostat and turning it up to about 5 degrees above room temperature, then going to the furnace and making sure it fires up. Whether it fires up instantly or after a cycle, the furnace should then stay on until the temperature matches the thermostat. If it turns off early, it could be due to an oversized system or poorly located thermostat. Supply registers should also be open and clear, and the ductwork hot but not painful to touch. Ensure that any vents can be closed off in the winter.

Heat pumps last about 8-12 years, though they can last longer with good maintenance (and last much less longer without it). Freon systems in and of themselves need charging about every 4-5 years.

Air conditioners get "suspect" after about 14 years, but their life can be extended with a new compressor. AC units that have already had the compressor replaced 8-10 years ago are likely due for a complete replacement. If the home doesn't have air conditioning but you would like to add it, be warned — forced air heating systems that are 30 years or older can make adding AC difficult, and pre-war era homes that are heated with hot water can only take central AC.

For water heaters, elements last about 8 years, while tanks often last about 8-10 years. Boilers can last up to 30 years or more, but watch out for asbestos insulation in older homes. Inspect for leaks, corrosion, blockages, and pressure problems, and make sure it isn't undersized for any home features you plan to use, like a soaking tub (for comparison, a family of 4 should have at minimum a 40 gallon tank). Ensure that the tank is at a safe temperature, not too hot or cool.

On all of the HVAC systems, have a look at elements like filters, humidifiers, fan units, and so on to see how clean and well-maintained they are. Be on the lookout for rust, cracks, dents, water stains, strange noises, condensation, loose connections, or gaps in any ducting.

Inspecting Plumbing & Septic

Plumbing and septic problems can be some of the messiest to deal with, and it's best to catch them early in the home buying process. Homes that were built prior to 1986 may have toxic lead plumbing, while those built prior to the 1940s can have galvanized steel pipes which only last 40-60 years. Copper plumbing is much safer and more durable, so long as your water isn't acidic.

There are a number of simple tests you can do to check the standard plumbing in a home. For toilets, press your shins against the bowl and push to see if it rocks or moves. Inspect the base for discolouration, warping, and soft or moving floor — all signs of a leak. Flush every bowl and listen for any hammering in the walls, which indicates loose pipes.

Check sink faucets and the pipes beneath them for any drips or leaks. Fill the sinks with water and let them drain, watching for any problems. If the sink makes a 'glug glug glug' sound as it drains, air is likely getting siphoned through the trap, which is a venting problem. If there are any PVC drains, inspect them for sagging, especially where hot water is involved.

Find the shower farthest from the home's water source and check its temperature and water pressure. There should be access to bathtub drains through an access panel or return register grill — find out where, then fill the tub to the overflow and watch for any leaks in the access panel. Let the tub drain and check again for leaks as it does so.

Determine whether the shut-off valve for the water supply works: there should be no water from the taps when the valve is engaged. Check that the water pressure isn't too high or too low — lines running from the main water source should be ¾-1 inch in width, and pipes a minimum of ½ inch from there.

Find out whether the home is on septic or sewer. If it's septic, find out where the septic tank is located, how much it holds, where the lines are located, and when it was last emptied or serviced. Watch out for seepage, standing water, or noticeable odours. Septic tanks with issues can be thousands of dollars to fix.

If the home is on sewer, consider having a camera inspection done on the sewer line: there have been incidents of potential home buyers having an inspection done only to find the sewer line on the verge of collapse, which would be a costly repair.

Inspecting Electrical Service

Any electrical service should be large enough to supply both the current home and any future expansion. Homes 40 years and older are likely to need a service upgrade and won't have standard electrical distribution services, while 25-30 year old homes won't have the modern kitchen and bath circuitry now expected to support multiple heavy appliances.

Homes built from 1966-1976 may have aluminum wire in branch circuits, lighting, and wall-receptacle or outlet wiring, which is a serious problem that needs to be replaced by a licensed electrician. Also watch out for knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring, which is poorly suited for modern electrical needs and can make your home uninsurable.

Breaker panels that are 30 years or older should be evaluated for arcing or burn marks behind the breakers, and to see that they still trip as designed. Older panels may also have a multi-throw disconnect instead of a main disconnect, meaning that multiple breakers have to be shut off to turn off power in the house. All breakers should be clearly labelled, supply one wire only, and be tested for operation.

Fuse panels are fine when used properly, but many have the wrong size or type of fuses, or too many circuits on one fuse. In this case it's best to have them completely replaced.

Watch out for "do it yourselfer" work, especially in attics and garages. Kitchens, basements, garages, and outdoor outlets should all have ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI). Kitchens may need special outlets to handle their appliances. The home itself should have at least one ground rod or approved means of grounding, and all wires, conduits, and boxes should be securely fixed to the building with no visible damage.

Finally, don't forget general safety! Ensure that safe lighting is present in the basement, hallways, staircases, garage, and entrance, and remember that wired smoke detectors need replacement after 8 years.